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This is an entirely subjective view, a list of the pubs I really love or don’t. The star rating is my own and takes into account what I think a good Dales pub should be. Where applicable I include notes on the landlord and staff as I think that they are critical to the experience. 1=rubbish to 5=The Best Pub in the World. There is really only one 5 and handily it's also the nearest one! So here it is:

 

The George, Hubberholme. ***** The local, just two miles away. This has been a favourite of mine for years - about 30 of them. It never changes in appearance, is the perfect Dales pub and is quirky and delightful. In 2013 the pub was taken over by Ed and Jackie, who have brought the place back to life after years of neglect. In 2014 they brought in Jeff the Chef and what was once mediocre food has been transformed under their combined influence. Locally derived and lovingly prepared; exactly the sort of "proper" food you need after a day in the hills. Jeff's pies are one of the wonders of the region! Even just writing this makes me hungry! The George is only small so book a table in advance, certainly at the weekend, and say your staying at Harry's and your guaranteed star treatment! Tel: 01756 760233

 

But,  there is possibly another, or if not, it's so close to being a five star it should be rounded up. Bit of a drive, but you'll think it worth it I'm sure:

 

The Craven Arms, Appletreewick*****. The inside of this pub simply cannot be beaten. Old, cosy, used, historic and perfect. As if it wasn’t already good enough they built a Saxon cruck barn on the back. The beer selection is fantastic, with never less than 10 real ales, and beer festivals are regularly held in the barn. The wine is even quite good! Food is also wonderful; my only criticism is that there are not enough traditional pub favourites. David, the driving force behind it, has often been on TV driving around in/on his 30’s Bentley discovering microbreweries. Some people have all the luck…. Tel: 720270

 

Wharfedale

 

The White Lion, Cray.*** Currently closed but I'm including it as it surely must open again soon. Lovely old pub with a great main room and good fire. The food is generally good and the service is great. It’s a lovely walk from here, rising up at Yockenthwaite to contour the hill to Cray. A couple of beers and a game of "bull 'ook" and you're sorted. Come back on the lower path, it’s beautiful. Tel: 760262

 

The Buck Inn, Buckden.*** I used to be particularly cruel about this place, posh and popular in the 70s, it seemed to embody the worst of that dubious decade - expanded to large, odd rooms with less atmosphere than the moon- but I'm re-thinking my view. With a large bar it has the luxury of a wide range of beers, including the sublime Old Peculiar. The atmosphere is improving, the decoration is tasteful. Definitely worth a visit... Tel: 761401

 

The Fox and Hounds, Starbotton.*** Lovely Dales pub but as with many local landlords, his attitude depends on how his day’s going. It seems to be going wrong most days. Can be reasonably pleasant but don’t bank on it. On a summer day, few places can be more pleasant than sitting outside having a pint. Food is acceptable. Tel: 760269

 

The Kings Head, Kettlewell.****. What a turnaround! Has been rubbish and has shut on several occasions but the new owners have done a fantastic job and I love it! Proof, were it needed, that everything in the world isn't getting more rubbish with time. Outstanding food, service and the refurb spot on. Lovely inglenook fire. Pass me the Sunday Papers, I'm sorted!

 

The Blue Bell, Kettlewell.*** Great location for sitting outside watching the world go by in spring and summer. The food is ok (they even have a menu for dogs!) and the landlord friendly. Tel:760230

 

Racehorses, Kettlewell.** Very popular with the locals and the food is reasonably good. Lacking in atmosphere though and the interior is less than inspiring. Tel: 760233

 

Zarina’s, Kettlewell**** I don’t do tea rooms but this is the wonderful little exception. Ok, it’s not a pub but you can get a drink. Lovely little coffee shop with the best cakes (please don’t eat all the Bakewell Tart, I hate it when they run out!). Popular with MAMILS (Middle Aged Men in Lycra), which can be off-putting to those of a delicate persuasion, and seems to be a cycling destination. Feels like you’re an extra in The Calendar Girls! A surprising find and they do take away fish and chips on a Friday!  Tel: 761188

 

The Tennants Arms, Kilnsey.*** It’s recently changed hands (again!) but I still like it. Does everything a pub should, even doing decent wine which for some mysterious reason is a rare thing in Dales pubs! The food is reasonable. Tel:752301

 

The Queens Arms, Litton.**** As quirky inside as the George, great food including game (often seen hanging outside in season) and it’s own brewery. Run by really nice chaps too.  Tel: 770208

 

The Falcon, Almscliff ** Crap beer, don’t risk the wine and I’m not even sure they do food; to be honest I’ve never dared ask. However, visit it if you want to see one of the last of the old pubs, where the old bloke serves horrible beer from a barrel behind the bar and the room to the right is a totally untouched old dales kitchen complete with an equally untouched old farmer’s wife. If you’d been coming 40 years, you’d still be an outsider… Tel: I doubt they’ve got one.

 

Others

 

Simonstone Hall***, nr Hawes. Just gets three stars for the wonderful bar. It’s essentially a beautiful Jacobean mansion, but looks rubbish from the road. Sitting out the back admiring the view is a joy on a summer evening. On a winter day the cosy little bar is just great and they even supply the papers. Food average. Tel: 01969 667255

 

Tan Hill Inn **** (above Keld, Swaledale). Mad, unique and brilliant. The fact that it’s the highest pub in Britain is just one of the attractions. It attracts an eclectic bunch of people, a magnet for bikes, vintage cars and general eccentrics. Ducks and sheep regularly roam the bar area. Don’t go if it looks like snow! Tel: 01833 628246

 

The Fountain, Hawes*** A decent locals pub. The beer is good and it has Sky Sports.

 

The White Hart Inn, Hawes*** Down the bottom of Hawes, bear left against the one-way system. Just been renovated by a lovely young couple. Wine bar feel and a really nice place to be. Tel:0871 951 1000

 

Blue Lion, East Witton **** A great bar and restaurant. Primarily a foody place with an excellent reputation, deservedly so. A really nice special night out. Can get very busy as people travel some way to get here. You will need to book. Tel:01969 624273

 

The Victoria Arms*/***** (between Hawes and Bainbridge on left hand side) This is one for the connoisseur, as indeed I am. But look at the star rating! It's either a one or a five, you decide! This is the one you'll be telling your friends about and they won't quite believe you. If you want unique, properly mad, the like of which you’ll never see again, try it. Either the bar man or the wolfhound will lean on the bar and stare at you, as if they haven’t seen a punter for years. This could well be true. Oh yes, and watch out for the stuffed fox's arse. Really.

 

The Kings Arms, Askrigg*** Definitely worth a visit for the main, double height room and fireplace. Run by a lovely chap, who’s name escapes me, who used to run the Simonstone Hotel Bar. Try the Askrigg Ale and all the food’s good. Marvel at the strange bloke in khakis who sits at the bar. If you’re a James Herriot fan this is the local in the series and there are pictures everywhere. Tel: 01969 650817

 

The Black Swan, Middleham.*** Great old pub with huge beams and big fire. The whole town is dedicated to horses so it’s full of jockeys. You’ll be the biggest chap in the bar which can be nice sometimes and helps if the bar is busy. Tel: 01969 622221

 

The Farmers Arms, Muker.*** Lovely spot. Would only really recommend it on a sunny, warm day where you can sit outside the south facing front and chill out after a good walk. Otherwise unexceptional and really a 2*. I believe the term average was invented to describe food such as this. Tel: 01748 886297

 

Punch Bowl, Low Bentham.**** Exceptional food and decent beer. Refurbished a few years ago by the people behind the famous C B Inn (In Arkengarthdale). Really great job, wooden floors and quite minimalist but very much in keeping. The nearest thing to a wine bar feel in the area. Unlike most of the others described, more a restaurant than a pub. The aged beef is definitely worthy of consideration. Tel: 01748 886233

 

Beer

 

The main local beers in local pubs are Black Sheep, Taylors, Theakstons and Copper Dragon. The Wensleydale-brewed Askrigg Ale is now served at the George and is a really good pint. The Black Sheep and Theakstons brewery are both in Masham, south of Leyburn and past Middleham, or approached out of the back of Kettlewell through Coverdale. Absolutely worth a visit if you like your beer, for a sublime pint of Theakstons Old Peculiar in The White Bear - actually within the brewery grounds. The Kings Arms in the main square is also a good place to enjoy both Black Sheep and Theakstons. Copper Dragon is brewed in Skipton but I’m not a huge fan although they do a great dark beer called Black Gold. Always seems a bit wimpy. I like my beer strong, tasty and likely to put hairs on your chest.

 

Other than these, the Taylor’s Landlord is always good and in quite a few local pubs. The usual lagers are everywhere with a nice Bitburger at The George.

 

The wine in many local pubs is usually rubbish, which is inexcusable these days. It’s excellent in Kilnsey and the Punch Bowl but otherwise at best average. 

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